The Alaska Highway and Kluane National park

We visited Haines Junction twice: once on our way to Alaska and once on our way home. The first visit, after camping in Pine Lake campground was refreshing and low key. The Village Bakery had delicious treats and good vibes and we filled up on both gas and so much information at the excellent Kluane National Park Visitor's Center. The second time we stopped through Haines Junction, in late July, we could not find parking for the car-trailer combo or a table at the Bakery and nearly got stuck in the mud. Woah.

Relief of Mount Logan, the 2nd tallest mountain in North America.

Kluane National Park is the largest internationally protected area on Earth and contains the 2nd and 3rd tallest mountains in the US and Canada, has the largest non-polar icefield in the world and just a few glaciers, like 2,000. The Park is 80% icefields and glaciers, 10% boreal forest, and 7% alpine (that's not under snow?).  Glaciers can surge up to a mile a year, but we knew this from Glacier Bay National Park because a surging glacier chased out the Tlingit people 300 years ago.  

Kluane Lake: Dry Lake Bed

Just North of Haines Junction, enormous Kluane Lake is around 150 square miles and shrinking.  Shrinking because the Kaskawulsh Glacier, which fed the former Slims River which used to feed Kluane Lake, has melted so much that the drainage shifted to another river and the Slims River is no more.  Weird glacier stuff that you only know if you're surrounded by 2,000 of them.  Or, if you stop at the tiny, remote visitor's center at the bottom (South end) of Kluane Lake.  At this visitor's center they also have hiking, an outhouse, information and a viewing platform for dall sheep which we, unfortunately, did not see.

Stopped at Thechàl Dhâl Visitor Center and Sheep Mountain 

By the way, Slims River is purported to be named after a pack horse that couldn't make it across that raging beast that was/is/was Slims River and fed Kluane Lake back in the early 1900s.  Rivers in Alaska and the Yukon are no joke and more like what we call lakes in Colorado: wide, fast, sometimes deep and and turbulent.  

Donjek River just North of Kluane Lake

About the midpoint of Kluane Lake on the Alaska Highway there is an RV resort that looked amazing.  We could have camped on a grassy knoll right next to Kluane lake and explored the shore in our boats. Alas, we did not. This lovely RV park was not quite far enough on our way to mainland Alaska and it was too far on our way back home so we never got to stay at Cottonwood RV Park in Destruction Bay.  

We did, however, stop at Burwash Landing to gas up and spend some time at the Kluane Museum of History. Here we learned even more about the animals, flora, fauna and history of the area. Tucker learned that a pack of wolves will eat a wolverine. Kris would like a musk ox cloak for the winter. Amy enjoyed the video on the construction of the Alaska Highway. Kenedy thought the loon was beautiful and loved the shiny rocks. We also bought and mailed postcards with pictures of glaciers and big mountains and places that we never thought we would visit-but here we are...So, guess what, we drove to the Yukon. In fact, we're here right now. Can you believe it?! Miss you. Love, the J-Bs

Walking path and the ubiquitous fireweed along the Alaska Highway in Burwash Landing

We may have missed Cottonwood RV Park but, knowing Snag Junction (our other camping option) was closed due to wildfires, we found Discovery Yukon instead. The bathrooms were new, clean and private and the showers were luxurious and hot. The grassy campsites were flat, clean and surrounded with trees, manicured flowerpots and a gurgling pond. Laundry was broken so they did it for us for $10CAD. We were in heaven!...

Campsite at Discovery Yukon

...for a bit, and then bugs and rain descended, and the satellite wifi was so slow and Kris needed to work and this was the day our airbnb guests checked so we really needed that connectivity. But we still had craft brews from Haines Brewery and, really, we were so lucky to be in this lovely, developed campground in such an exotic, remote place; so comfortable with some connectivity, great showers and clean, new bathrooms.

View from Discovery Yukon: Wrangell-St Elias National Park lies beyond

So we happily came back to Discovery Yukon on our way home and stayed in the same campsite with the same hot showers, clean bathrooms and beautiful views.

Status of the Alaska Highway so far: fine to Burwash, potholes, rollers and some gravel beyond.

Adventure to Alaska: Haines to the Yukon

We spent ten of our sixty big, big trip days in the Canadian Rockies. We did this deliberately because of this...

Paddling in Jasper

But our time in the Inside Passage; that exists in my memory with a fairytale, dream-like quality.  Our last ferry ride, from Juneau to Haines, was amidst something like paradise.  We drifted through an inlet, dwarfed by massive peaks, glacier after glacier, and more waterfalls plummeting from the top of the mountain seemingly all the way to the bottom.

But we'd seen so much of this type of dramatic scenery already, it was easy to pass off as yet another aweing stand of mountains, glaciers and waterfalls. Whereas on our first ferry ride, we spent hours on the decks, watching the views with wonder. This time Tucker watched a movie and Kenedy listened to music.

Mahna Mahna Do doo be-do-do

We planned to stay a few days in Haines but instead stopped for a stretch, grabbed a beer at solar-powered Haines Brewery and decided to keep moving.  The Haines Highway follows the immense braided Chilkat River. Along the way, the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve has multiple viewing platforms, some with informational signs. July is not the season for eagles but, wow, it was worth a stop even if just for the vast views of the river valley. One of those channels would easily be considered a raging river in Colorado.

The Haines Highway ascends to the Alaska-Canadian border, where the river narrows and then the road moves away from the river altogether, eventually landing on what seems like the top of the world where the terrain changes from deciduous trees to alpine tundra as you enter the Yukon.

Haines Highway

Let me just write that again. THE YUKON!  Wow...bucket list: check.

We drove through Million Dollar Falls campground but were feeling fine and decided to keep going.  We reached Kathleen Lake campground in Kluane National Park at about 8PM on a Saturday.  Surprising to us, campgrounds all the way up here in the Yukon still fill up on a summer Saturday night.  We wanted to spend a little more time with Kathleen Lake so set up for dinner in the empty day use parking lot next to the lake. Oh, and turned our tent into a parachute (to dry from rain in Juneau).

Kathleen Lake

We ended up snagging the last campsite at Pine Lake provincial campground for $12CAD.  By the time we set up the tent, mosquitoes were out in full force so we said goodnight looking forward to breakfast at the Village Bakery, a visit to the Kluane National Park Visitor Center in Haines Junction and then onward to the Alaska Highway!

Adventure to Alaska: Juneau

Juneau, I wish I had known you earlier but I promise to make up for lost time in the future.

A crazy number of people come and go everyday on these massive cruise ships.

We will remember Juneau for so many reasons: listening to the U.S. women win the world cup, camping within walking distance to a glacier (and almost being evacuated because of it), the cruise ship influx, Alaska's crazy governor and our new, loving dog (we named her Juneau).

Mendenhall Glacier

Living, green carpet on the hike to Mendenhall Glacier.

We hiked to Mendenhall Glacier from Mendenhall Lake campground. Mendenhall Glacier is fed from Juneau Icefield which we know is immense only from satellite images; otherwise it is hidden behind the glacier and mountains. Touch, taste, see, hear and smell a glacier. The kayaking guides at the trailhead warned us that the trail was treacherous and difficult to follow. We are still wondering what they meant-it was not hard, so beautiful and worth it!

Mendenhall Glacier

Our Mendenhall Lake campsite was 20 minutes to downtown Juneau, 10 minutes to the ferry AND had power and water. Nice! Our campsite was large, flat and surrounded with wild blueberries. The campground showers were bike-able, clean and mostly hot. We did not see anyone else use the showers but we did meet another traveling couple on our ride back from the showers. They were spending the summer wandering (tent camping) from Florida across the northernmost parts of North America before heading back down to Florida for winter. They were with us at Bartlett cove but we chatted for a long time in Juneau. So many good, friendly people, and interesting stories on our trip. The trip made us more relaxed and extroverted; open to regular, lengthy conversations with complete strangers.

fresh picked wild blueberry pancakes

On the food front, we tried Deckhand Dave’s (seafood truck) and the Rookery (cafe). Alaska does not lack deliciousness. We had seafood, ice cream, coffee, beer, baked goods and purchased plenty of groceries. We did not get to all of the bookstores in Juneau but were a little disappointed with the Hearthside Books & Toys which has two locations (we visited both looking for a book Kenedy needed to read for school).

Latte a la Rookery

Juneau also has a Costco. We were told by locals to stock up at Costco before heading into the Yukon because the food that we would buy at most of the grocery stores up in the Yukon would probably come from the Juneau Costco anyway. So we filled up the car as full as possible with everything we thought we needed for the long drive ahead.

Deckhand Dave's and Alaska brews in the outdoor foodcourt.

I admit I love museums and The Alaska State Museum, in a gorgeous new building, is full of history, culture, art and science. Tucker learned all about World War II and the Aleutian Islands. I took away surprise at the long legacy that Russia had in parts of Alaska and respect for the Alaskan immigrants who made some space to intertwine new Alaskan culture with those of the natives.

Alaska State Museum

The Alaska governor probably hates the Alaska State Museum.  He is trying to effectively de-fund the Alaska state government including the ferry and schools.  We met many Alaskans who were outraged at these ideas. Vote, people, vote! 

We packed up camp at Mendenhall Lake just before the campground was evacuated due to anticipated flooding from a glacial outburst.  One last slow-paced, peaceful passage on the ferry before we hit the Yukon and the ALCAN.

Adventure to Alaska: Glacier Bay National Park

After three epic days on the Alaska Marine Highway, and the USWNT's epic win! LFG!...

We brought soccer along for the ride.

...we landed in a brand new (and epic) place: Glacier Bay National Park. If you are considering whether or not to come, consider no longer. This is a 100% MUST DO: remote, quiet, unique, breathtaking... We watched humpback whales, sea otters, seals, eagles and porcupines from our campsite.

Wandering the intertidal muck in Bartlett Cove.

A few tips from our visit:

• The Alaska Marine Highway will get you to Gustavus. Or you can fly into a relatively large Gustavus airport. Taxies (some electric) will come and get you. You can also bring your own car, like us, but we think it was expensive and unnecessary. There is a gas station in Gustavus just in case.

Gas station in Gustavus

• The Gustavus Inn and The Lodge at Glacier Bay seem like great (inside) places to stay. We thought we were going to stay at Seaside RV Park near town but could not find it. Luckily, after a short freak out, we found the Bartlett Cove campground instead.

The Lodge at Glacier Bay

Buzzing around the fireweed outside the showers at The Lodge.

• Bartlett Cove campground is near the Park Visitor’s Center and an easy and flat walk with wheelbarrows to carry gear back and forth. Sites are quiet, clean, free and on the beach next to the dock where the daily Glacier Bay boat tour leaves. Brush your teeth and eat in the intertidal zone. Store your food in the food cache. Bathrooms are clean and smell-free.
• We met all sorts of friendly people in the campground: a large group from Whitehorse, just back from a 7-day backcountry kayak trip (where two of them got engaged!), stopped to chat and admire the Tiger Moth while we were cooking dinner in the parking lot. And, we met several down-to-earth and outspoken Gustavus locals: originally from New Mexico and Colorado.

Campsite at Bartlett Cove

• The daily boat tour is pricey but worth it. Plan for a long day. (Both kids took naps. I wish I had.) They provide drinks, snacks, lunch, binoculars and have beer on tap! Lots learned and seen on the boat tour including puffins! Alaska was burning, making views generally hazy but not enough to obscure gigantic mountains and glacial valleys.

Icebergs and Margerie Glacier

Happy Hour on the Glacier Bay Cruise

• Multi-day kayak trips look life-changing though a guide is a good idea since the water is cold enough to cause rapid hypothermia, wildlife is abundant (grizzly bears are not rare and whales will surface under and tip over your kayak) and tides are drastic and will wash away your gear at night.

Loading and unloading kayaks for overnight, backcountry trips.

• Most people see Glacier Bay from the deck of a big cruise ship but there are plenty of activities if you stay a few days on land in Bartlett Cove: evening programs at the Huna Tribal House, nature walks and hikes, exploring the intertidal zone, biking the (one) road to Gustavus, paddling the Bay.

Huna Tribal House

Foraging for berries.

Forest Loop Trail

We paddled the bay and barely made it back to the boat ramp.  Tides in Alaska are crazy!

We had a blast and will be heading back for a multi-day backcountry kayak tour. We recommend getting here as soon as you can!

So you're thinking about driving to Alaska?

Riding Bikes along the Valdez Glacier Stream

In June-July 2019, this family of four tallied 8,000 miles over 60 days, visiting nine U.S. and Canadian National Parks and sleeping in 39 different places. We towed a twelve foot Taxa TigerMoth trailer (mostly to carry bikes and boats) with our 2015 Volvo XC60 (which had 80,000 miles). And, we brought the whole ensemble along on the Alaska Marine Highway System from Prince Rupert to Juneau to Glacier Bay to Juneau to Haines.

Juneau to Haines on the Alaska Marine Highway

Our path to Alaska crossed British Columbia on the Yellowhead Highway, bounced along the Alaska Highway, the Haines Highway, Tok Cutoff, and the Richardson Highway. We stayed nights in Prince George, Smithers, Terrace, Gustavus, Juneau, Haines Junction, Beaver Creek, Glennallen, Valdez, Delta Junction, Whitehorse, Watson Lake, Muncho Lake, Fort St. John with stops through Burns Lake, Houston, Kathleen Lake, Tetsa River Lodge, and Dawson Creek. And that was after three weeks in Teton, Yellowstone, Glacier, Waterton, Banff and Jasper.

Life-renewing showers at Discovery Yukon. We stayed twice!

What's it like to come home?

When we landed back at home in Colorado, we breathed a sigh of relief and were promptly swept back into the repetitious grind of daily life: school, sports, family, work. The long break was energizing and helped us remember how grateful we are for being close to friends and family, indoor toilets and tables, hot, spacious, clean showers and coffee made by the pot instead of the cup. It worked?!

Tucker and Kenedy paddling Jackson Lake while Kris was in New York City.

Should you rent out your house?

Prior to launch we packed up, de-cluttered, cleaned and posted our house on Airbnb to offset costs and lack of income (from me). 

But by the end of the trip we were still broke...and happy and proud. If you already Airbnb your house, this would be a SUPER easy option. For us, making our house a welcoming home for guests while wrapping up work, soccer, school and planning was… challenging and emotional. It was also stressful staying responsive to guests without burdening friends and family who remained local. We were deep in the Yukon, without consistent connectivity, when guests checked in..."can you hear me now?" Fortunately, they were easy, self-reliant and hands-off.

A Digital Nomad

Kenedy paddling Pyramid Lake while Kris was in Chicago.

Kris powered through a massive summer workload as the strange landscape of the Yukon and Alaska passed outside our car window. He worked alongside the Bow River, while drinking lattes and eating cinnamon rolls in Valdez's comfy Latte Dah, huddled up in the trailer for shelter from winds and cold in Glacier National Park and even presented from a payphone in Muncho Lake.  Ultimately he worked all but ten days (in Glacier Bay and Juneau) including saying goodbye to us for two trips stateside.  

Kris in Chicago while we camped in Jasper.

Some of our strangest and most outstanding memories are because of Kris's status as a working nomad. His work was consistent and stable while everything else around us changed.  It did dictate our choices-- we were constantly chasing coverage and/or wifi-- but also enabled splurges every so often.  In hindsight, it would have been great to have a few more days free of the digital tether but, as some say, start where you are--we went, even if it wasn't perfect!

Finishing up the day along the Bow River in Banff

So what about the mighty, tiny trailer?

The awning and outside kitchen were nonnegotiable comforts! Thinking back, it was a nearly perfect solution for our trip: we used it to carry the boats and the bikes, get away from bugs, snow, wind chill, to make an impromptu roadside/parking lot coffee or lunch, to take in a movie, and as a magnet to meet new and interesting people.

Chilkat Pass: these six wheels can take us anywhere!

The Volvo XC60 suspension wasn’t great for pulling even a light trailer. But, the TigerMoth was small enough to move by hand, including so that we didn’t need to back down the ramp onto the ferry. And we just love Taxa’s thoughtful design and ruggedness.

The beginning of the end (for us)

Did you have it or not?

• Ice? Yes but the cooler was usually not very cold.
• Gas? No problem. Lots of gas!
• Laundry? We had way too much laundry all the time and only one place that we really wanted to do it (Snowdome in Jasper).
• Coverage? Great cell coverage at most of the towns along the Alaska Highway but not much in between. WiFi was tough. Mostly this comes through satellite which is OK for checking the occasional e-mail, but not great for making reservations or loading maps.

no comment necessary

• Power? We were always powered once we invested in the GoalZero Yeti to charge items required for digital nomads.
• Sunshine? 16-22 hours of manic sunshine (kinda weird indirect, semi-sunshine, though).
• Cords? Often lost.
• Showers? Take them whenever you can because you never know when the next will come.

Kenedy on the mic at 11PM!

Any recommendations on camp eats and drinks?

Laundry, fuel, ice and food were constant needs during our trip. You can find food and groceries all along the Alaska Highway but stock up when you find the good stuff (if you have room). Memorable options for us were the IGA in Glenallen, Three Bears in Tok, Rainbow Foods in Juneau, and Little Green Apple in Haines Junction. We were in delicious, fresh food heaven in BC and even stayed at Hidden Acres Farm and Treehouse where we were able to buy freshly harvested spring greens and peas.

A few specific tips on how to make the best of day-to-day food on the road:

• We spent five nights and six days rafting the Main Salmon where we learned that wraps are the best delivery method for salad.
• French press coffee makes a big mess. Plus the coffee gets cold fast if it's cold outside. Aeropress (or maybe pour over) is the way to go even if you have to make one cup at a time.

A typical lunch

• Good ground coffee, like Kicking Horse, was available just about everywhere. Pre-made smoothies, like Happy Planet, were also at most gas stations to keep things on the healthy side.
• Mike’s Mighty Good just-add-water Ramen surpassed expectations...by a lot. But, then again, food just tastes better when you're camping.
• Seeds of Change pre-cooked rice in a vacuum bag is easy to heat and tastes great with cubes of paneer and curry simmer sauce.
• Birch Benders pancake mix: grab it up whenever you see it and then eat it often.
• Bagels toasted on the camp stove are a special camp treat.
• Wean yourself from pop in favor of bubbly water at gas stations.
• Sir Kensington mayonnaise and mustard make lunchtime sandwiches a little more exciting.
• For gourmet PB&J just add freshly baked raisin bread and local jam.

PB on raisin bread with Copper River Valley jam

Would you do it again the same way?

Heck yea! But, let's be honest, it was hard for many reasons.

Me-ish time.

• Being away from the comforts and luxuries of home.
• Not having space for me-time.
• Motivating to work.
• Asking selfishly for time off of work.
• The long cold walk to the bathrooms.
• Missing friends.
• Long drive boredom and waiting.
• Staying organized.
• The full spectrum of laundry and wifi (and the never-ending need for ice and fuel).
• Being broke for several months after return.

What was the best part?

We all relish the experience for different reasons but, being from a landlocked state with big(ish) mountains, I think we'd all agree that the best part was our time touring the inside passage. The three day, two-night ferry ride was in no way boring. At nearly every moment, there was was something to see off the sides of the deck, most often a whale or sea otter or bald eagle. And, it's hard to describe our Glacier Bay experience...euphoric, life-changing, the stuff of dreams. We could have spent days just watching humpbacks from the campground shore. And, Juneau...well, we named our dog after Juneau if that's any indicator.

It's all too easy to lose the motivation to tackle these big dreams as a way of life, instead of as a one-time event, but we are closer, stronger, more curious and courageous for having made it happen.

Wrangell-St. Elias, the largest U.S. National Park.