Colorado to Nova Scotia: Kouchibouguac

At the Quebec Museum of Civilization, we learned just how little recorded and taught the history reflects the people and cultures who came before us on these lands. We extend the deepest respect and gratitude for the opportunity to spend time on the unceded land of he Siknikt District of Mi’gmagi Territory, referred to here as Kouchibouguac National Park.

En route, as usual at charging stops, we a met few more like-minded folks. This one was a family of three also camping their way through the Maritimes in an EV. They were set up to have one person sleep in the car and two in a tent. We took notes from their trip along the Cabot Trail and looked forward to a few more stops along the way.

First glimpses of the big Gulf of Saint Lawrence were happy and relieved after many days of anticipation. Our campsite in South Kouchibouguac, reserved online a few days earlier, was fine. We pulled in just as a big RV with small children parked next door. On the other side was a retired couple and a teeny trailer with a ton of style (looked like something you’d find at a major surf break). Plenty of trees kept privacy of sight and the rest was just part of camp life.

Nice campsite!

We had one full day to explore this place and we had a lot to do: paddle, swim, bike, hike. We forgot fuel to cook so set out by bike to find a bottle of fuel at any one of the camp stores around the park. 

will bike for (camp stove) fuel

No luck.  A quick trip to the next town over was successful but campout Chilaquiles were only half eaten before a dinnertime downpour. The sun came out long enough to clean up and the sky was clear enough to sleep under the stars. 

First up, bike! Kouchibouguac's one way mountain biking trail took us over curvy boardwalks, along soft forest floor and across Major Kollock Creek. Overall it was a cruisey and fun about 12km. At the end we were so hot and sweaty that we almost jumped in then root beer-colored creek. Instead we held out for the beach and stopped for a cold soda, hot dogs and poutine at Kelly’s Beach Canteen.

Next up, swim! The dog had been cooped up in the car while we biked so we opted for the dog friendly Callanders Beach which was actually swamp, river and dunes, but not deep enough to swim. The dog had a blast jumping through the shallow, warm water. Like a sea dragon. Then, with dog sufficiently tired out, we left her on dog mode and headed across the hot boardwalk to white, sandy, busy Kellys Beach complete with a lifeguard and designated swimming area. We tested the water which was icy (not surprising considering that icebergs float just North of here in Newfoundland) and full of sea life - huge jellyfish and crabs and sea bugs. Interesting but kinda yuck. So… cold plunge it was.

A Kouchibouguac National Park book booth!

Pretty good selection!

SUP? We didn’t go! We decided to shower instead. Everyone else in the campground also decided to shower. For a full campground they were pretty OK showers (we did use the ones at the end as opposed to the middle). And then it rained again so we ate dinner under cover and were off to bed. Two nights in Kouchibouguac Park were enough even if we didn’t SUP. We did what we needed. 

Tomorrow Hopewell Rocks, the bore tide and Fundy!

Hopewell Rocks