Trip Report Day 9: Nelson, B.C. to Apgar Campground (Glacier National Park)

Old mining places still exist here along B.C.'s Highway 6 which follows the Salmo River to Salmo. Kenedy tells me about a frost giant or frost giants that live near Ymir in Winter Lost, the 14th book in the Mercy Thompson series by Patricia Briggs. We stop at the Dragonfly Bakery in Salmo and order sweet and savory things plus two coffees from the kindest person behind a counter maybe in all of B.C. 

Salmo's Dragonfly Cafe where bacon cheddar chive bread = delish!

After Salmo, we are back on the Crowsnest after our Nelson side-quest. The road follows the river in and around and in all directions past logging and fire scars of tree skeletons and healthy forests that carpet the mountains. We stretch our legs at the Creston Valley Wildlife Management area because all of the guide books tell us to and I am glad we do.

Kenedy vs. the internet - a saga that continues, maybe as long as she is in Canada. Maybe as long as she needs internet (how long is that?). I am unneeded as she continues her battle with the internet provider by phone in the car. I blissfully loop around mucky ponds, past lookout towers, a bat condo and between tall willows and cottonwoods. 

I see a kamikaze osprey dive rewarded with a fish, graceful swans with their long necks reaching deep into the water, turtles of all sizes sunning themselves on floating logs and along the grassy banks, wood ducks swimming purposefully, a great blue heron hiding, silent and still in the tall reeds, tree swallows talking all along the way around the loop and a beaver who gave me a suspicious side-eye through the binoculars. Kenedy met me halfway and we fought bugs for a portion of the swampy walk back to the car. 

tree swallow

swans

Many other people are here for the birds and the beauty and the dog walk on this perfect Sunday morning. Is it always like this? A constant question as we pass through...everywhere. We have a vision of the place based on books, pictures, sometimes social media and other stories; then an experience in real life based on a short term stay. Judgements are made, stories are told, pictures taken as a snapshot in time, with not enough data. 

We head toward Fernie, a place with very good memories. But then not Fernie. Too expensive. In Cranbrook we weigh options while we eat produce while charging in the parking lot of a Canadian Tire. We decide it’s time to drop back into the U.S. 

Border crossing anxiety prevails again! 

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Turns out all is good when crossing the border and we are soon back in the United States. Is this good or bad? It is certainly more expensive. We wash the car looking for a fresh start with our complicated country and to let go of some of the previous drive’s bugs, maybe a goodbye to Kenedy’s good-bad year in Vancouver. Then we turn toward Glacier to camp. If we’re this close, we should go. And, the time changed from Pacific to Mountain so we’ve lost an hour. Errands along the way are delayed and we head straight to Apgar where we are stymied by so many choices for camping. Pick one even if it’s not perfect. 

perfect, not so perfect (turns out the closest bathroom was out of order)

Pay, buy wood, set up and ride into the sunset (on bikes). Dinner is pre-made and we are mesmerized by the fire for the rest of the night. Maybe our last and only campfire for the season. 

Fire

water

We sleep beautifully in the warm, quiet, empty campground and have a slow, slow morning. The question inevitably comes up again: where next?

One last drive into this glorious national park to stroll around Lake MacDonald Lodge, which is closed, which is so pleasant because it is closed and there are not so many people. We admire the lake views and the architecture that has become iconic in this complex which was built to compete with the great railroad lodges. According to our book,  Great Lodges of the National Parks, people came here by boat first, from 1914 - 1919, when it was called Lewis Glacier Hotel. They arrived by train to West Glacier, then took the ferry to this swiss-style chalet set on the side of a pristine, crystal clear lake flanked by glacial peaks and dense forests. What an entry! 

arrive here by boat in 1914

sleep in a work of art

For us, in modern times, budding birch emanated the energy of change and we watched bikers set out up the great Going to the Sun Road, most on e-bike but a few of their own peddle power. How far could we ride up that road on our bikes? Doesn’t matter. We’re on our way home!