Trip Report: A day in Nelson, B.C.

Nelson is a not-so-nice Canadian town of like-minded rebels - a proper ski town, a creative mecca, a hippie enclave, an outdoor enthusiasts paradise. 

Nelson, B.C.

Nelson is steep! Except Kootenay Lake which is huge and flat. The town reaches steeply up on terraced roads. Up hill traffic does not stop and water is very much and very rapidly carving new courses through the Earth. 

looking North (toward Kokanee Creek and the rest of 90ish mile Kootenay Lake)

This is where gnarly downhillers procreate the next generation of X-Game gold medalists and residents work diligently to make space for art, individualism and yummy food. I would have felt kinship with this town and it’s people - especially the rebelliousness and independence of it all - alas, we felt a bit like intruder tourists to their quiet mud season. And, I felt so, so not gnarly or creative in our motel, shopping for a clutch pair of tennis shoes at Walmart and driving the streets looking for available charging.

charging wherever we could

We stopped in Nelson after our interest was piqued last summer. Since we had bikes in tow this time, we thought we might try some mountain biking. Unfortunately, or more likely fortunately, we neglected to bring our transformer-like protective downhill cladding so opted to catch the flat, easy, risk-free Great Northern Rail Trail. 

a trestle bridge on Great Northern Rail Trail 

And then, feeling justified, we ate our way through town: deli sandwiches on fresh baked baguettes at the artisan Charcuterie Totoche, soft ricotta gnocchi pillows, fresh-baked focaccia and roasted broccolini at Marzano, crispy, creamy creme brûlée and fancy drinks at the Library Lounge in the historic Hume Hotel. 

Library Lounge (Mr. Hume in the framed photo)

We loved Nelson for its cultivation of individualism and visibly vibrant community. But also, it’s proximity to the Okanagan Valley lends to very tasty experiences as well, with thoughtful, curated, local, fresh, sustainably-minded provisions - like so many places in British Columbia. Iconic local roaster Oso Negro coffee operates out of a fairytale-like cafe cottage with delicious drinks and treats. 

Prince of Darkness (just dark enough for us) by Oso Negro Coffee 

Ellison’s market and Kootenay Co-op sell food the way it should be sold: labeled by origin, fresh and local as much as possible. At these markets we acquired Jerseyland Organics yogurt, Okanagan blueberries, Millsie creamy cashew dip, a highly stinky cheese block and a loaf of the best banana chocolate bread ever made on Earth. We savored that loaf for the rest of the trip.

We thought about taking another day to explore this part of B.C. and taking a the ferry side quest up to Revelstoke but that would have added another day of just driving and we were both starting to feel homesick.

Nah.