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| Hopewell Rocks |
Fundy is known for tidal shifts - like Alaska. It’s a short drive from Kouchibouguac to Moncton where we stopped to see the bore tide (happens twice a day). Unfortunately, we were busy eating oysters and missed the bore by about ten minutes. Instead we watched the muddy red water rise about 10 feet in 10 minutes. Two surfers packed up next to us after their short ride.
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| Sea Stacks |
Next up: Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park. Here, when the tide is low, you can walk on the ocean floor and when the tide is high you can paddle around the stacks that dot the shore. But first a critical stop at a place called Cinnamon Soul Cafe - if you know Kris, you know.
At Hopewell Rocks the tide was up so we viewed from the platform and enjoyed the Interpretive Center exhibit where we learned the science of the biggest vertical tidal change in the world. Sidenote: Hopewell Rocks is quite popular so was crowded even on a Wednesday at 5:30PM when we visited.
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| The view from Highway 114: Hopewell Rocks to Fundy National Park |
The drive from Hopewell Rocks to Fundy National Park follows the green rolling hills of the coast, past a million tall church steeples. Alma, the small gateway town to the National Park was busy during our visit. And foggy and then sunny and then foggy again.
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BIG tides in Alma
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| Point Wolfe Bridge |
The historic Point Wolfe Bridge spans the big tide inlet/river at Point Wolfe. We camped here where Parks Canada has installed one cute, blue, dry teardrop-shaped cabin, called an Ôasis. We sort of wished we could stay in an Ôasis instead of our misty, soggy campsite.
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| an Ôasis |
Fundy National Park was cloudy and cool so kinda perfect for biking until we got to the course where it was hot, sunny and dry. Opportunists, we took full advantage and left a great big yard sale of things to dry on the bike rack-turned-drying rack while we got sweaty and had a blast riding the course at Chignecto Recreation Area.
In a great oscillation of opposites, we thought about taking our sweaty selves for a swim in the Bay after lunch at Herring Cove Beach but the water was glacial and the breeze cool so instead we detoured to sparkly, quiet and cool Dickson Falls.
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| many steps down to Herring Cove Beach |
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| Dickson Falls |
We gave up on a damp, smoky failure of a campfire attempt and instead took a quick walk past the Trans Canadian Trail and eventually out to Point Wolfe River Estuary. The tide was out so we were able to walk all the way out to the Bay and almost up the Inlet under the covered bridge. The dog did her best sea dragon (lunging through the tidal waters) and Tucker opted to stay behind and protect the smoking non-fire.
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| Point Wolfe Estuary |
Our last night at camp here, we settled in for a long, uncomfortable night of little sleep and a lot of floating around the great (tent) flood of Fundy. Again, oscillation, we dry out and then everything is wet again. This time we are soaked through and through: tent, clothes, down sleeping bags, pillows, ground pads, even the dog…everything.
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good thing she's waterproof
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| The great (tent) flood of Fundy. |
The morning challenges us to stuff all this wet gear back in the bursting-at-the-seams Rivian. Normally we would wait for the sun. Here, we just have to go - so much heavier for all that sogginess. Is there a desert in New Brunswick? Cape Breton? Alas, onward we go, taking a little (a lot of) Fundy wetness with us.
