The One Canyon to Rule Them All

Having said good bye and hello to the past few years at the Grand Canyon, I spent many 2017 mornings dreaming about a return visit.  

In keeping with tradition, on the first day of 2018, we took Highway 89 through Kanab, Lee's Ferry, and over the one bridge that crosses the mighty Colorado River and, finally, leads to the Grand Canyon. We descended the Kaibab Plateau at dusk and were greeted by a massive wolf moon rising over the vibrant red Vermillion cliffs. I'm sure that's a sign that 2018 will bring more amazing adventures for the J-B pack.

And then,...the long, moonlit drive through the dark desert to the South Rim.

***

The next morning we voluntarily skipped showers and drank coffee out of paper cups instead of Mimbreno China. A pump had broken and, in the desert, water is more important than coffee cups. Besides, this was not just any pump, this was the one pump that pushes Grand Canyon Village's only water supply up from the bottom of the canyon, after it is piped across the canyon from a spring on the North Rim.  We did not complain as we sipped yummy coffee and hot chocolate in the historic dining room of El Tovar.

We took the South Kaibab Trail down into the canyon.  Thankfully the weather was great, trails were dry and wind was minimal.  

We passed two mule trains... or did they pass us?

One crew of mules was lugging heavy loads of rock back and forth for trail maintenance.  Two strong and dusty cowgirls were managing the monotonous walk, dump, turn and start again process. Mules do not complain. The cowgirls weren't complaining.  We should all stop complaining!

As if the Grand Canyon isn't a religious experience by itself!

We hiked more than three miles down and then another three back up.  The kids skipped ahead as I put one foot in front of the other, one step at a time, all the way back up. Now who's complaining? These kids are old enough to be interested and capable of big hikes, but maybe I'm too old?

It is a lot of switchbacks, though...

I mean A LOT!

And a few steps...

But the reward, well...it is the one canyon to rule them all.

And where else can you get that unmistakable feeling.

Escalante Petrified Forest State Park

 Escalante Petrified Forest State Park, is just up the street from the tiny and outdoorsy town of Escalante, Utah. In the spring and fall visitors probably fill the streets and patronize open businesses, but on New Year's Eve Escalante was downright deserted.  Fortunately Nemo's stayed open for us and the five other visitors to town, and we were able to enjoy a quick and delicious sandwich.

Escalante on New Year's Eve 2018

Further down the road, a 50-foot petrified tree greets you at the parking lot to the State Park and campground.

More million-year-old tree remnants are scattered along the second half of a short-but-steep loop trail.  Printed trail guides highlight the flora, rock formations and the climatic and geological ingredients required to create a petrified tree. 

Petrified trees are interesting--Kenedy and Tucker's favorite part of the Park--but I loved the views.

A little piece of Grand Staircase

Escalante (town)

We stopped by the petrified tree stump in Yellowstone several years back--it's enclosed within a chain link fence.  Here we passed peaceful views and were able to get up close, count the rings and even see what must have been bark and branches.  Worth the stop.

Devil's Garden and Hole in the Rock Road

Two days ago we scrambled between goblin hideouts. Today we wander through Devil's Garden (which happens to be in close proximity to Carcass Canyon, Hell's Backbone and Death Hollow).  Sinister holiday vacation?  Nope, just a Utah road trip full of natural geologic wonder.

Twelve miles down a long, flat, plateau on washboardy Hole in the Rock Road (which continues another 50 miles to Glen Canyon) is Devil's Garden.  

 Hidden in a wash are tall, quiet formations, waiting to be discovered.  It is as if these stoic statues of rock were forgotten after the erosive wind and watery mess that swept away the rest of the surrounding rock and dirt.  

They were sublime. I wanted to lay down and absorb as much of the warmth from the sturdy, red, pink and white rock as possible.  

We climbed and explored the odd shapes, sizes and colors--no trails, no boundaries, not many people, a few cows.

And then I woke up? No. It wasn't a dream. Phew.

Lower Calf Creek Falls

I love the tiny town of Boulder, Utah.  So many good things about this place including the many windows in our airy, lux room at the Boulder Mountain Lodge.  Right next door is the Burr Trail Outpost which was the only Boulder business serving food on December 31, 2017.  No problem.  That's all we needed.

From Boulder head towards Bryce on Highway 12 -"A Journey Through Time Scenic Byway."  Highway 12 leads to Capitol Reef National Park and Bryce Canyon National Park and connects humans to portions of the majestic Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (don't ever shrink this place again, please!).

Exit Boulder to white dome tops and then back down down into red canyons, along a spine or ridge or hogback where both sides of the road drop deep down into winding, horseshoe canyons.  After a few minutes and a few "turn or die" moments, we descended to Calf Creek Campground and Lower Calf Creek Falls trailhead.  

The Lower Calf Creek Falls hike winds around the flat and sandy creek bed for three miles until it dead-ends into the falls.  

Just go! Lenses can't do justice, especially in the drab winter.  

The falls drop more than 100 feet. We had them all to ourselves. What a way to spend New Year's Eve.

Our feet and knees paid the price for 6-miles walking in the sand but it was worth it!  

So lucky to have experienced this place in the quiet, cool winter and will love to see it again in the hot, busy summer.

Goblins in Entrada Sandstone

Go west, young woman?  No, fly South. Like birds...

 From Denver, head West on I-70 to Utah.  Exit Highway 24 South and down a lonely two-lane road for a good, long way.  Problem: there is absolutely nothing for about 100 miles between Green River and Torrey, UT.  And we missed the rest stop.

In search of a bathroom off of Highway 24, we found ...Goblins!  

The ebb and flow of ancient tides caused deposits of sand that eroded over 170 million years into three valleys of giant mushrooms.  Utah made it a state park and called it Goblin Valley. Thank you, Utah!

I think I saw goblins darting stealthily between mushroom hideouts.

They hideout in an inspiring, picturesque and fun place!  

We were free to explore under every formation, on top of each weird crag and into all corners of the red valley.  We played for nearly two hours.

And could have stayed much longer-but we still had to go to the bathroom (just kidding!).

Goodbye goblins, may more desert canyon exploration lay ahead... next stop Boulder, Utah and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.